Thursday, June 7, 2012

Curt 11356 Class-1 Trailer Hitch

Curt 11356 Class-1 Trailer Hitch

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Price: $109.85    Updated Price for Curt 11356 Class-1 Trailer Hitch now
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Product Feature

  • 1-1/4 inch receiver tube opening
  • Gross trailer weights (GTW) and tongue weights (TW) vary by application
  • Never exceeds vehicle weight rating
  • Hitch only; ball mount, pin and clip not included

Product Description

Curt mechanically de-scales all the hitches before applying a thick powder coat finish leaving an attractive high-gloss, smooth surface. All Curt hitches come with mounting hardware and easy to follow installation instructions. Class-2 hitches have an 1-1/4 inch receiver opening, and rate up to 2,000 pounds gross trailer weight (GTW) and 200 pounds tongue weight (TW). This trailer hitch includes a standard Curt ball mount with a pin and clip.

Curt 11356 Class-1 Trailer Hitch Review

Just installed this hitch receiver on my 2014 Mazda 6 without any problems. My first time installing a receiver. Took about 45 minutes taking my time and chatting with a buddy (a 2nd set of hands really helps the install). Hitch build quality is good. Holes lined up on the frame rails perfectly. All parts were included in the package, and the instructions were pretty good.

I do feel like the receiver is a bit exposed and could probably be tucked in a bit tighter into the vehicle (but we're talking 1/2" here at most). That said, the receiver is NOT the lowest point on the underside of the car so I don't expect any significant impact on MPG from wind drag, if any at all.

Tip for DIY installers: You use supplied fishwire to get 4 spacers/bolts into the frame and aligned in their respective holes. On each frame rail (left and right), there are 4 holes, all of which are shown in the instructions. 2 middle holes are clearly for the bolts, and I assumed the other 2 were the access holes for fishwiring the spacers/bolts into place (i.e. one nearest each bolt hole). This is NOT the case. You only use 3 holes total: 2 middle for the bolts, and only the rear-most (towards rear of vehicle) hole is used as the access hole for BOTH bolts on that side. The front-most hole should not be used at all in the process. The spacer will fit through the front hole but not the bolt. This cost me about 10 minutes on the install, but I got everything sorted out in the end but just wanted to mention that as it's not explicitly clear from the instructions (well, it wasn't to me).

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